Day 10: 23 July

10:30am
The glacier at Breiðárlón The buttresses still stood.
Regrettably, we failed to find the grey kitty to say goodbye before leaving Flatey. We headed West along the RingRoad, stopping briefly at Breiðárlón, a small glacier a little bit off the road. We also saw the ruins of some bridges destroyed in 1996, when volcanic activities led to the flooding of a crater lake beneath the glacier, sending a wall of water 5m high sweeping away everything miles around, including these bridges. Later in the same day we would see the wrecks of Skeidarárbrú, the longest bridge in Iceland, all twisted and broken.
12:45pm
Svartifoss Esther and Thomas on the way to the fall. Emily and CK having a close look.
The main destination of the day was Skaftafell National Park, where we made a short hike to see Svartifoss (Black Falls).
Following the stream to find Svartifoss. Delicate little wild flower.
The adjective referred not to the color of the water, but of the basalt columns which formed the theater around the waterfall. Unfortunately it rained quite badly, but we still managed to walked for an hour in our rain gear and had a good look of the bay and the nearby glacier.
Looking south from Skaftafell. Note the glacier on the right and the myriad of rivers (Skeiðarársandur) flowing into the sea. The bridge over the river was Skeidarárbrú.
3:15pm
Twisted ruins of Skeidarárbrú

After lunch at the visitor center, we crossed Skeidarárbrú, the longest bridge in Iceland and the segment of the RingRoad to be completed last. Before its completion in 1975, to travel from Skaftefell to the capital meant taking the long journey through eastern and northern Iceland, or trekking through the barren interior of Iceland. After the bridge was destroyed in 1996 by the crater lake flooding,
Krossárfoss falling over the cliffs. Krossárfoss viewed between the Drawf Cliffs.
a temporary bridge was rebuilt in three weeks, a testimony to the resilence of the Icelandic people.

Later we stopped at Dverghamrar (Drawf Cliffs) to take some pictures of Krossárfoss. By the time the chilly rain was falling heavily and the ladies decided to stay in the car, while Thomas and CK managed to have a five-minute stroll without catching a bad cold.

5:15pm
CK giving kittie a massage. Now we were feeling warm again.
Esther and Thomas giving each other massages.

When you were feeling cold, nothing could warm you faster than alcohol and a hot tub. We found both at Hotel Höfðabrekka near Vík, which in additional also came with a nice cat. This one was an elderly kittie, but also adorable in her own way.

After regaining our body warmth, we headed out for dinner in Vík (The Bay), the biggest town in southern Iceland. Unfortunately, the choices of eateries in Vík was extremely limited. We ended up at a place where we had to waited for 20 minutes before getting a menu, had to get drinking water ourselves from a jar which was almost always empty (everyone needed water, so whenever the jar was refilled -- an infrequent occurence -- the water was immediately comsumed), and most importantly, served mediocre food. Our worst dining experience in Iceland.

We slept with the winds howling outside the windows, and ice was forming over the pond outside the hotel. Welcome to Iceland.

next day


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Created on 12th Sep 2003. Last updated on 11th Aug 2006.
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