ÿþ<html> <head> <style type="text/css"> body { background-color:black; color:white; font-family:bookman old style,times roman; font-size:105%} h1 { text-align:center; color:gold; font-family:Monotype Corsiva,times roman} h2 { text-align:center; color:gold; font-family:Monotype Corsiva,times roman} table.big { width:850; font-size:110%} table.left { float:left; width:1; font-family:arial; font-size:50%} table.right { float:right; width:1; font-family:arial; font-size:50%} table.small { float:right; background-color:AA5500; color:black; font-size:60%; font-weight:bold; border:red blank; width:225} tr { vertical-align:top;} td.time { font-weight:bold; width:70} td.odo { font-weight:bold; width:60} p { text-align:left} p.center { text-align:center} p.bottom { text-align:center; font-size:80%} b.gold { color:gold} b.aqua { color:aqua} b.white { color:white; font-weight:bold; font-size:110%} img.v { width:77; border:0} img.h { height:77; border:0} </style> <link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="d.css" /> <title>Patagonia -- Day 1</title> </head> <body> <p class="center"> <table class="big"> <tr> <td colspan=2> <h1>Day 1 -- 9th Jan</h1> <td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">Time</td> <td><td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">10:45</td> <td> <p> After a long red-eye flight, we landed at the <b class="gold">Ezeiza Airport</b> of <b class="gold">Buenos Aires</b>, the Argentine capital. Immediately greeting us was the warm and humid summer air of the southern hemisphere. We quickly removed our winter clothes before catching a taxi to ... </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">12:00</td> <td> <p> <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6452.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6452.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6407.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6407.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Before the hotel.</td> <td>An elegent lobby.</td> </tr> </table> The historic district of <b class="gold">San Telmo</b>, famous for its artistic atmosphere and its tango. We checked into elegantly renovated <b class="gold">Mansion Dandi Royal</b>, which was both a hotel and a tango school. Unfortunately, there was no <i>milonga</i> (open tango dance event) at the hotel that night, but the helpful hotel clerk gave us some pointers on the local tango scene. </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">13:05</td> <td> <p> <table class="left"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6416.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6416.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>The tiny asado.</td> </tr> </table> Seeking our first authentic Argentine meal, we came across a tiny <i>asado</i> (eatery specializes in grilled meat) near the marketplace. The place was dominated by a large charcoal grill, with a large variety of meat happily sizzling in a cloud of fragrant smoke. Emily immediately started to interrogate the proud asador on the identity of the different grilled meat in her broken Spanish, much to the amusement of the locals around. When we tried to order a blood sausage sandwich, we encountered an unexpected obstacle: it turned out that there was a chronic shortage of small changes in Argentina, and the asado simply refused to accept the large bills we withdrew at the airport ATM. Eventually we found a helpful gentleman on the street who took pity on us and reluctantly consent <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6420.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6420.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Yummy!</td> </tr> </table> to exchange some of his treasured small changes for <i>one</i> of our large bill (he flatly refused to exchange for another one -- there was a limit to his generosity which we did not dare to push), before returning to the asado and enjoyed our delicious sandwich (condimented with three different spicy sauces) along a great glass of house wine. Food was cheap in Argentina; the whole meal cost less then a hamburger in United States. </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">14:00</td> <td> <p> <table class="left"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6449.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6449.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Fresh squeezed orange juice.</td> </tr> </table> <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6424.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6424.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>CK savoring ice-cream.</td> </tr> </table> The warm morning was turning into a hot and sunny afternoon when we began our southbound walk through the city. We stopped on our way for some fresh squeezed orange juice and ice-cream. </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">15:00</td> <td> <p> <table class="left"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6428.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6428.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6443.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6443.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Boca Junior stadium.</td> <td>Colorful Caminito.</td> </tr> </table> After an hour, we arrived at <b class="gold">La Boca</b>, the rugged blue-collar port-side neighborhood with a strong Genoese heritage. We walked by the famous <b class="gold">Boca Junior Stadium</b>, where Diego Maradona used to play before he headed for Europe. A few blocks away was <b class="gold">Caminito</b>, the tourism central of La Boca, <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6432.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6432.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6434.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6434.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6439.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6439.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Streets of La Boca.</td> <td>Tango dancers.</td> <td>Cowgirl Jr. tap dancing.</td> </tr> </table> where the iconic colorful corrugated metal houses stood. The streets were full of tourists and lined with pubs. In the summer heat, who could resist the temptation of icy cold beer? So we got a table in the front row, ordered a liter of beer and watched the dancers performed tango, flamenco and tap-dance. </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">17:35</td> <td> <p> We were back in the hotel and took a nap. (We did not sleep that well on the plane.) </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">20:55</td> <td> <p> <table class="left"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6454.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6454.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6456.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6456.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Have some house wine ...</td> <td>and fire-roasted peppers.</td> </tr> </table> Like Spaniards, Argentines have their dinner late: restaurants often opened no earlier than 8 or 9pm. We had our dinner at the neighborhood asado restaurant <b>El Desnivel</b>. <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6457.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6457.jpg"></a></td> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6458.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="h" src="thumbnails/DSCN6458.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Steak and potatoes.</td> <td>With the asador.</td> </tr> </table> Argentina is a country of carnivores, asado is the national dish of Argentina, so we had fire-roasted pepper and a big juicy piece of steak, grilled <i>azul</i> and <i>sangre</i> (blue and bloody, which means rare: Argentines usually serve their meat well-done). </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">23:40</td> <td> <p> <table class="right"> <tr> <td><a href="photos/DSCN6462.jpg" target="blank"> <img class="v" src="thumbnails/DSCN6462.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td>Scene at milonga.</td> </tr> </table> One of the reasons why we chose to stay in San Telmo was to visit an authentic milonga, so right before midnight we found ourselves sitting next to the dance floor. There was a good mix of people at the milonga: from smartly dressed youngsters to senior citizens as seasoned as the old colonial building. It turned out that the aged folks were often the best dancers: their moves were slower but more elegant and precise, with more <i>duende</i>. </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="time">00:30</td> <td> <p> Back in the hotel, we packed our bags to be ready for our morning flight. </p> <p style={text-align:right}><a href="d02.html">next day</a></p> <td> </tr> <tr><td colspan=2> <hr> <p class="bottom"> <form name="nav" method="POST"> <div align="center"> Jump To: <select name="xfer" size="1"> <option value="../../private/index.html">CK's Home Page</option> <option value="index.html">Patagonia Trip</option> <option value="d01.html" selected="selected">Day 1</option> <option value="d02.html">Day 2</option> <option value="d03.html">Day 3</option> <option value="d04.html">Day 4</option> <option value="d05.html">Day 5</option> <option value="d06.html">Day 6</option> <option value="d07.html">Day 7</option> <option value="d08.html">Day 8</option> <option value="d09.html">Day 9</option> <option value="d10.html">Day 10</option> <option value="d11.html">Day 11</option> <option value="d12.html">Day 12</option> <option value="d13.html">Day 13</option> <option value="d14.html">Day 14</option> <option value="d15.html">Day 15</option> <option value="d16.html">Day 16</option> <option value="d17.html">Day 17</option> <option value="d18.html">Day 18</option> <option value="d19.html">Day 19</option> <option value="d20.html">Day 20</option> <option value="d21.html">Day 21</option> <option value="d22.html">Day 22</option> <option value="d23.html">Day 23</option> <option value="thoughts.html">Thoughts</option> </select> <input type="button" onclick="location = ''+document.nav.xfer.options[document.nav.xfer.selectedIndex].value;" value="Go!" /> <div style={font-size:75%}> (These pages were developed with Internet Explorer and may not align correctly in other browsers.) </div> </div></form> </p> <p align="center">Created on 28th Feb 2010. 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